Patricia Chang/Eater SF
As the U.K. left the European Union — but, not really — on 31 January, Instagram was a requiem for a food lover’s dream
Welcome back to Insta Stories, a column examining the London restaurant scene through the often-problematic medium of Instagram. This week’s filter is inspired.
News of the week
Welp, at least that’s done with. On Friday night last week, after what feels like a lifetime’s campaigning and multiple lifetimes’ parliamentary clusterfuckery, Britain finally left the EU. Hoorah! Except, apart from the bit where all the trade deal stuff still has to be negotiated. But this is still a major step! Just, not the final one. Let’s call it a milestone, maybe. Is the word “checkpoint” too charged? Anyway, the food world reacted with predictable, very specific mourning — even if #organic gelato remained firmly off the menu.
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Tiramisu, from the Italian, meaning "pick me up" #european ✌ . . . @100acrefood
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Here we go again...
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31.01.2020
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As @alicegray said, Burgers not Brexit.
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Difficult to know what or whether to post today, but I guess I just wanted to say it seems sad and odd to have decided to end the freedom of movement (to our shores) of little sardinellas from Galicia, marinda tomatoes from Sicily, olive oil from Sparta and moscatel vinegar from Catalonia. Amongst other things. #sardinellas #marindatomatoes #extravirginoliveoil #moscatelvinegar #Sicily #galicia #Sparta #catalonia #freedomofmovement #LittleBritain #EU #lettuceromaine
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I am sorely tempted to stand on the table and loudly sing La Marseillaise.... #paris #pastis #jesuiseuropéenne #bloodyfuckingbrexit
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POST-BREXIT BUFFET
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Seasonal glut of the week
As foretold, the blood oranges are here, and they are looking particularly appealing in a winter sun / pleasant bittersweet baked goods situation.
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Steamed blood orange, clementine & barley sponge
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ROOIBOS AND BLOOD ORANGE CAKES / I am a food nerd. Every year when foods I like come into season, I get excited as a normal person might about a new coat or seeing an old friend. Right now it’s blood oranges that have my attention. They come just when we need them when its bleak outside, dip-dyed, ruby red when you cut into them. I realise I am a special type of nerd and a lot of people won’t even notice or perhaps even care that they have come and gone. That's why I made them into little cakes, which, I would bet, will get a few more of you excited. @matt_russell on the
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This cake from #Bitterhoney getting a lot of love at the moment and it’s the perfect time of year to make it. Essentially all of the best things in life baked into a cake (ricotta, olive oil, blood oranges, polenta) which is both crunchy and squidgy and moist and cheesy in a cheesecakey way and sharp and sweet and caramelised and all the good things and I’m not sure what else you can ask for from a baked item really
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Divisive delicacy of the week
Another pet theory in a column that is fast becoming a Carrie Mathison-style cork-board wall display of them. The reason that a whole generation grew up with weird food turn-offs — cauliflower, cabbage, liver, semolina, rice pudding — is that NOBODY KNEW HOW TO COOK THEM. These days, boiling the hell out of a brassica or roasting a piece of offal until rock-hard would see the cook locked up for Crimes Against Seasonal Produce; the power of television and the internet is such that other means of preparing ingredients can diffuse into any kitchen with access to electricity. All of which is to say: It’s time to give tapioca another chance.
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That most divisive of desserts! Tapioca: redolent of school dinners, loathed by those with hateful childhood memories of insipid frogspawn swimming in unflavoured, over-sweet milk, a cloying dollop of unidentifiable commercial jam slowly leeching into the liquid. Please, allow us to heal the trauma. Tapioca: simmered gently in milk and rich Neal’s Yard Dairy double cream, with vanilla pods imparting their aromatic speckles as it slowly thickens in the pan. Enriched at the final moment with egg yolks which render the pudding silky, golden and custard-like. The poached rhubarb lending an essential sharpness to freshen each glorious spoonful (and oh, those colours)! Your dessert at Bread and Wine this evening. A moment of brightness and comfort on a grey Monday.
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Pet prediction of the week
In hand with a vaguely Brexit-y nostalgia, the comfort food of the 1970s will make a roaring comeback.
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Iced buns hun
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Dad joke of the week
Yep, pretty solid.
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“WHO YOU GONNA CALL?” Hahahahahahahahah.
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Suggestion of the week
Why stop there? Nuked Negroni! Fried French 75! Boiled Boulevardier!
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This is not a gimmick. Ryan Chetiyawardana’s (@mrlyan) unorthodox method for upgrading stirred classics calls for a quick nuke in the microwave. The electromagnetic radiation “softens and integrates the mix, harmonizing the flavors on the spot.” On other words, it produces a near-instantaneous flavor infusion that will leave you looking like a magician. Head to the link in our profile for the science, plus recipes three recipes he designed for the home bar. #drinkpunch : skrzat
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No context smut of the week
Ban this sick filth.
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Starting the day by rubbing my nuts.
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You can also put a sausage on it.
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Intriguing newcomer of the week
Since opening a decade ago, Gelupo has always been about proper Italian gelato, with proper Italian flavours, for proper Italian people. Sure, there are the occasional collaborations and the always-excellent Christmas specials, but from the shockingly verdant mint straciatella to the ludicrously creamy bonet, this tiny shop in Soho has set its stall on introducing Londoners to the specialities of gelato capitals like Bologna and Turin. This new addition to the rotation suggests the possibility of an interesting change of direction for Jacob Kennedy and co: could the parlour take in the mastic-infused delights of Turkey, the supreme purity of dairy from Hokkaido, the joys of Indian kulfi and Mexican paletas? Who knows. But if it does, it’ll certainly be a delicious journey.
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❗️ New flavour: pistachio baklawa . . . . . #foodgoals #foodporn #EEEEEATS #tasty #topcitybites #eatlocal #love #eat #instagood #wanderlust #funday #chefsofinstagram #nom #instafood #delicious #foodgasm #Italian #Gelateria #boccadilupo #gelupo #icecream #gelato #dessert #frozen # #
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Belated bandwagon-jumping of the week
Coming to supermarkets in 2025: jarred cacio e pepe sauce; head-on scarlet prawns; a katsu sando featuring neither bread nor breaded cutlet.
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Supermarket observations today 1. After a couple of years of near obsession with pickling and fermenting, first spot in a Waitrose. One to watch 2. Tinned jackfruit in ingredients. 3. Note the change of package shape from Charbonel & Walker for supermarket display.
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Etiquette dilemma of the week
Is this the liberal metropolitan elite version of the “scones: clotted cream or jam first” debate?
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Today's questions. Crab then aioli or aioli then crab? Where is the Chablis? / Crab from excellent @bristolfishltd. Top white tin from @marks_bread no sourdough nonsense with its silly holes and lacerating crusts anywhere near me thank you v much.
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Don’t call it a fixation of the week
Paging Dr Freud!
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Potato tart from the last post @elevenmadisonpark : @evansungnyc #makeitnice
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Inspiration can come from anywhere and for me often it’s been through art. Here’s Foie Gras and Pumpkin Seeds inspired by one of my favorite artists #AndyGoldsworthy @elevenmadisonpark #makeitnice
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Portabella mushroom roasted with leek and shiso @elevenmadisonpark : @evansungnyc #makeitnice
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Ongoing volte-face of the week
Dominique Ansel’s House of Leaves – now shifting from “eyeroll” to “actively interested.”
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Little butterfly-shaped farfalloni with hazelnut pesto cream sauce. Daily tasting @dominiqueanseltreehouse as we count down 6 more days until opening.
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Dish of the week
One scoop, or ten?
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KHORAK E GOOSHT • خوراك گوشت Lamb fry with onion and garlic and a sourdough taftoon for scoopin’. Today’s special . . . . . . . . Khorak is a snack that’s usually eaten with bread and in our opinion some of the tastiest food
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Shot of the week
Another contender to replace the rockpool as 2020’s definitive presentational trend enters the race: Welcome the swoosh!
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Deep fried olives & aioli, the ultimate bar snack @oldroydlondon #islingtonrestaurants #meatfreemonday
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