Day 2 • Paintings, Park Life and Bistro Perfection
9AM If you'd like to see the Louvre, now's the time: early, before the crowds have descended (and preferably not on a weekend). Otherwise, cross the Pont des Arts and head south through the narrow Left Bank streets to the city's oldest church, Eglise St-Germain-des-Prés, followed by coffee at Le Rostand. Then stroll down to the Jardin du Luxembourg, pull up two green chairs (using one as a footrest) and size up the park life. The adjacent Musée National du Luxembourg hosts world-class art exhibitions.
NOON From here, hop on the métro to Jacques Bonsergent. Amble along the tree-lined Canal St-Martin, crossing over its romantic bridges to explore little shops and waterside cafés and maybe stopping at cave à vins Le Verre Volé for a plate of charcuterie and cheese. On Sundays, traffic is outlawed from the quai de Valmy and the bar-lined Quai de Jemmapes. There are plenty of boutiques in the area, alongside kitsch merchants Antoine et Lili. For a swift demi near the water, head to friendly Chez Prune, before catching the métro to Alma Marceau.
5PM Modern art lovers should make a point of visiting the wonderful collection at the Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris; it's a neighbour to the Palais de Tokyo, a dynamic contemporary art space. From here, you can walk to the Champs-Elysées and take a night-time hike up the freshly renovated Arc de Triomphe to see the lights of the avenue stretching into the city.
8PM Head back to the Palais de Tokyo and relax with an expertly shaken cocktail at the hip bar with its terrace overlooking the Seine. Then head up to Les Halles for supper at the more accessible branch of Grégory Lemarchand's hot new loft-style bistro, Frenchie Bar à Vins, next to rue Montorgeuil. Still got energy? Our Nightlife section awaits...